The Princess told me that the local hospital has decided not to put out a call for volunteer-made facemasks at this time, so I kinda backed off of working on them.
Then we got a call from the Huntsville Dream Center, which is very closely associated with our church. They will be using our church (which is, you'll recall, a repurposed high school building) to distribute breakfast and lunches to school kids, with the possibility of adding hot meals for the community. The work has been fast and furious to get the old cafeteria kitchen (which fed lunch to somewhere in the neighborhood of 3,000 kids back in the day) up and running to do that.
But, they have requested masks for the volunteers.
They did provide materials for the masks and I have farmed those out amongst the willing of the sewing group. We were asked to specifically make
THIS MASK, using 2 layers of quilting cotton and one layer of flannel inside, with the elastic loops for ears and adding a 6" pipe cleaner to make a pinchy bit for the bridge of the nose. Now, there's nothing wrong with this mask, but in my playing around I had come up with a different method.
I was told that, if I were using HDC-provided materials, to use to the instructions as requested. BUT...if I were using my own materials, then I could make them however I wanted. The only thing was it had to be three layers thick, w/o any filter pocket.
Both versions start with 9x6 inch rectangles. The real difference is that the mask in the linked video is turned out while the one I came up with has the edges bound and is held on with ties. The mask in the video is sewn wrong sides together,with the elastic in between the layers, then the nose-pincher is couched to one of the long side seam allowances, then it's turned out through an opening (I left my opening in the long edge that didn't have the nose-pincher). It's then pressed, pleated and topstitched to secure the pleating and close the opening that was left for turning. It is relatively fast and pretty simple.
But here's what I had come up with in my earlier experimenting.
Start with the three 9x6 rectangles; you can research the layers if you want but tightly woven 100% cotton or a cotton/polyester blend is recommended; one study said 100% cotton t-shirt knit was fairly effective as a filter; if you have excess freebie promotional t's lying around (and who doesn't?) they could be cut up as well.
ALSO...from your remnants stash you probably have some actual yardage; rip 2" strips all the way across 45" fabric. You'll need two of those strips for each mask.
The first thing to do when you get a batch cut and ready to make is to go to the ironing board and press all those strips in half lengthwise, then turn the torn edges in to meet in the middle and press again. Then fold the whole thing in half and press it again. Making the binding is probably the most time consuming part of the whole assembly process, but once you've got everything pressed it will go quickly.
Then, just to hold the layers together, do a quick zig zag around the outside of each stack of three rectangles. Put the right sides out; you won't be turning this one.
It'll look like this at this point:
Now we'll pleat the masks. You can just kind of eyeball three pleats...that's what many of the tutorials recommend. But if you have, or can make, a small assortment of templates from manila file folders you'll have a leg up on the process.
You can actually stack and pin the templates to make a little folding jig.
I used the 3/8" line on the 1" template so that the pleat would be a little shorter and hopefully not get caught in the binding stitching. Same principle.
When you're done pleating it should look like this:
Now, open up the ends of two ties and pin them to the mask, securing the pleats.
Trim off the excess and fold the cut edge under on the remaining tie and stitch that to secure it. The other end is a selvedge and shouldn't ravel out. Stitch the binding along the fold line, then flip it around to the other side and edgestitch it down. Now the pleats are secured.
Find the center of the long binding ties and the center of the mask. Pin the ties to the mask, matching those centers. Stitch on the fold line of the binding, being careful not to catch the pleat folds.
Find the center of your bendy bit (a 5 or 6" length of pipe cleaner or twist tie), extend one of the seam allowances and, matching the centers, zig zag across the bendy bit for it's whole length.
After you've secured the bendy bit, flip the binding around to the other side of the mask and stitch the whole length of the tie.
(You can't tell from the pic, but I sewed that entire tie w/ no thread in the bobbin. Oopsie. Take two, lol) Check to make sure you have caught all the edges, trim the threads and...you are done!
Here's a comparison of the two mask styles I've made this weekend:
You can see that the bound mask is slightly larger than the turned-inside-out mask, because it didn't lose the width of the seams. To me, there are two benefits to using the bound/tied version....the first is that elastic is hard to find. I used some 1/4" elastic I had stashed but I didn't want to exhaust my supply. Also, I'm not sure how well the elastic will hold up under extreme washing conditions...it's going to get soaked in hydrogen peroxide and washed/dried on HOT every single day until this is over. The other benefit is...it's a lot easier to pleat the thing if you don't have to deal with the bulky seam allowances on the short ends Encasing the ends of the elastic meant the edges couldn't be bound; so it had to be turned-and-stitched. The caveat to the version with the ties is that it takes a good bit more time...which would probably be less if I could find my Clover bias-tape-maker thingy instead of pressing each strip 4 times.
You can take your pick. If I were making masks for the family, I'd probably use one of the versions that has a pocket for a filter...assuming I could still find furnace filters to cut up. But, as source after source has stated, anything is better than nothing if you use it correctly.
So...here's the 'use it correctly' info I have found:
When it's worn, the front of the mask is contaminated. I will say that again. THE FRONT OF THE MASK IS CONTAMINATED. DO NOT TOUCH IT. After wearing it, it should only be handled by the ties/ elastics and dropped straight into a disinfecting solution until it is washed/dried on hot water. Then wash your hands.
The cotton mask is not considered a primary defense against infection. It might help you remember to NOT touch your face and to maintain 6' separation, but it certainly will not stop any bad germs if someone coughs or even exhales straight into your face. And if you touch it with your hands and then touch your face it will have done you no good at all.
So...there are my recommendations for a quick, sort-of-protective face mask. If you want a serious face mask,
HEREis a video on making one from a HEPA vacuum cleaner bag...but those are to be disposed of after using, including the elastic. And I'm wondering how long the bags are going to stay in stock, once people start cutting them up for masks.
HERE's a video for a mask w/ a pocket for a filter made from a HEPA furnace filter. I would probably modify it a little bit to have ties instead of elastic. In fact...that may be my next 'play around' with it mask style. In case things really get bad in our area.
Stay safe, everyone!
Note: If you landed here looking for mask-making info, I have a follow-up post with a few more observations HERE
