I finished Pastor N.'s coat lining yesterday morning and had him try it on whilst I was at church for a meeting in the afternoon. All in all, it looks pretty good, but I'm going to have to do a bit of work on the armsceye.
I was quite chagrined to find what is apparently a drafting error in the armsceye/sleeve. There was a good inch too much ease in the back of the sleeve, and the notches for the backside of the sleeve/ jacket didn't match up at all. So something was amiss, but I didn't know if the error was in the sleeve or in the armsceye. I removed about 5/8" from the sleeve at the sleeve back seam, trimmed some of the curve off the back sleeve cap and made a teeny pleat (it's the lining...it'll be ok) in the sleeve to get the rest out.
I still don't know whether the error is in the sleeve or the jacket, but after trying the lining on Pastor N., I'm going to enlarge the armsceye a bit. He can use all the sleeve ease I can give him. ;)
The back of the shoulders look a bit funny to me; almost like the shoulders are too wide. But he needs all the ease when he moves, so I guess we'll just have to live with the drapey lines when his arms are down. He will be quite active in the costume (this is close to a re-enactment type deal) so he needs to be able to have full range of motion.
So, I need to pull out the pattern and work some on the armsceye to get it to be a little better fit to the sleeve.
At least it's a pretty day and it will be nice working in the sunroom...where the cutting table is still staking a claim... ;)