I finished the shell of the coat early yesterday and got the lining put together and ready to go in.
So...all I have to do is sew in the lining, then add the braid 'buttonhole' trim to the jacket front and I'll be finished w/the machine sewing. The rest will be needle-and-thread stuff.
But I can charge ahead with the machine into the shirts....
I'll try to post a photo later today when everything's done but the handstitching, if I can get My Sweet Baboo to be a model for me ;).
*later that same day...*
I had to pin the lining up in the sleeves while it was worn, so My Sweet Baboo got pressed into use as a fit model ("I don't know how fit I am" he commented when I asked him to provide that service...). It's all done to the handwork at this point; I need to stitch down the lining and add buttons.
So I'm off to sit on the lovely front porch swing and enjoy the afternoon whilst I stitch away...
Saturday, May 31, 2008
Friday, May 30, 2008
Pirate Progress
Posted by Lisa Laree to Sew Random
I'm plugging along on that coat; once it's done to the buttons I can set it aside and start on the shirts, since DD #2 has an orthodontist appointment Tuesday morning to get her braces off, I think sewing buttons on the coat (it requires 28!) will be my 'sit in the waiting room' activity.
But the front facings are on; the sleeves are made...all I have to do to the shell of the coat is the side seams, side godets, and insert the sleeves. Then it will be ready for the lining.
I'm aiming to have the lining in by tomorrow night.
Arg, mateys!
I'm plugging along on that coat; once it's done to the buttons I can set it aside and start on the shirts, since DD #2 has an orthodontist appointment Tuesday morning to get her braces off, I think sewing buttons on the coat (it requires 28!) will be my 'sit in the waiting room' activity.
But the front facings are on; the sleeves are made...all I have to do to the shell of the coat is the side seams, side godets, and insert the sleeves. Then it will be ready for the lining.
I'm aiming to have the lining in by tomorrow night.
Arg, mateys!
Thursday, May 29, 2008
The Death of the Iron
Posted by Lisa Laree to Sew Random
Things were going along just fine; fusing the interfacing to the huge cuffs of the pirate coat sleeves. But after the second one, the iron started beeping (it's a Conair; it beeps to tell me it's ready, it's not ready, it's been down too long, it's tired of staying on...I got used to it). But this wasn't a 'I've been face down too long' beep, nor was it a 'I'm at the right temperature now' beep...it was a Beep That Didn't Stop.
A 'Beep Beep Beep Beep Beep Beep Beep Beep Beep Beep....' kind of beep.
I turned it off and on...still beeped. Tried setting it at different temperatures. It kept beeping. I thought maybe I'd drained it dry. It'd never beeped 'I need water' before, but it was worth a try. I filled the reservoir; it finally quit beeping. There was some (not a LOT, you understand...just some) gunk from the fusing process built up on the surface that might have made it think it was overheating; I cleaned it off (the iron cleaning process requires a high temperature and 2 - 3 bursts of steam). Once it was clean, it appeared to be just fine and I fused the third cuff. But as I was finishing up fusing the third cuff it quit making steam. I couldn't even get it to do a 'burst' anymore...and after a few moments, water began dripping from the steam holes. I turned it off and let it cool completely, then turned it back on.
No heat. The iron was dead. I'd used it pretty seriously for about 3 years.
I still had my spit-prone old Rowenta that the Conair had replaced; it was my 'carry to church for costume construction' iron, so I've pulled it out to keep going; the pirate coat really needs to be done by the end of the weekend.
Sigh. I didn't expect to be in the market for an iron...time to go read some reviews.
Things were going along just fine; fusing the interfacing to the huge cuffs of the pirate coat sleeves. But after the second one, the iron started beeping (it's a Conair; it beeps to tell me it's ready, it's not ready, it's been down too long, it's tired of staying on...I got used to it). But this wasn't a 'I've been face down too long' beep, nor was it a 'I'm at the right temperature now' beep...it was a Beep That Didn't Stop.
A 'Beep Beep Beep Beep Beep Beep Beep Beep Beep Beep....' kind of beep.
I turned it off and on...still beeped. Tried setting it at different temperatures. It kept beeping. I thought maybe I'd drained it dry. It'd never beeped 'I need water' before, but it was worth a try. I filled the reservoir; it finally quit beeping. There was some (not a LOT, you understand...just some) gunk from the fusing process built up on the surface that might have made it think it was overheating; I cleaned it off (the iron cleaning process requires a high temperature and 2 - 3 bursts of steam). Once it was clean, it appeared to be just fine and I fused the third cuff. But as I was finishing up fusing the third cuff it quit making steam. I couldn't even get it to do a 'burst' anymore...and after a few moments, water began dripping from the steam holes. I turned it off and let it cool completely, then turned it back on.
No heat. The iron was dead. I'd used it pretty seriously for about 3 years.
I still had my spit-prone old Rowenta that the Conair had replaced; it was my 'carry to church for costume construction' iron, so I've pulled it out to keep going; the pirate coat really needs to be done by the end of the weekend.
Sigh. I didn't expect to be in the market for an iron...time to go read some reviews.
Wednesday, May 28, 2008
Refashioning
Posted by Lisa Laree to Sew Random
I thought I'd post a project that I did when I was on blog hiatus, since I don't have much to talk about on the pirate stuff yet (I did change out all the thread and put new needles in the machines...how's that for progress??? But yesterday was a busy day).
About 4 or 5 years ago, I spotted a very nice black and tan jacket on a local department store's sale rack. I needed black-and-tan for choir, so I tried it on. Wonder of wonders, it fit. And it was such a sale...I got the little unlined jacket, PLUS a nearly ankle-length black linen sheath dress for $15. I've worn the jacket quite a bit, but the sheath...not once. The length looked rather dumpy on me, especially with the jacket, and it had a long slit up the back, but there were generous folded-back facings on either side so I thought I'd convert it to a vent. Well, it hung in the closet.
To be honest, I forgot about it.
When cleaning out the winter things, I came across it and decided it was time to fix it. So I took 8" off the length and converted the slit to a vent.
I think I'll wear it now. ;)
I thought I'd post a project that I did when I was on blog hiatus, since I don't have much to talk about on the pirate stuff yet (I did change out all the thread and put new needles in the machines...how's that for progress??? But yesterday was a busy day).
About 4 or 5 years ago, I spotted a very nice black and tan jacket on a local department store's sale rack. I needed black-and-tan for choir, so I tried it on. Wonder of wonders, it fit. And it was such a sale...I got the little unlined jacket, PLUS a nearly ankle-length black linen sheath dress for $15. I've worn the jacket quite a bit, but the sheath...not once. The length looked rather dumpy on me, especially with the jacket, and it had a long slit up the back, but there were generous folded-back facings on either side so I thought I'd convert it to a vent. Well, it hung in the closet.
To be honest, I forgot about it.
When cleaning out the winter things, I came across it and decided it was time to fix it. So I took 8" off the length and converted the slit to a vent.
I think I'll wear it now. ;)
Tuesday, May 27, 2008
Surcoats Down, Pirate Coat Up!
I finished off the surcoats yesterday afternoon, delivered them this morning, so now I've got to collect my sewing nerve and tackle that Simplicity 4923 jacket. The reviews on it are widely varied; everything from 'I enjoyed making the outfit, and even though the coat took time and effort, I was pleased with the results, my husband has fun wearing it, and we get lots of compliments.' to 'This is absolutey the WORST pattern I've EVER worked with.'. So I'm going to proceed slowly and with great caution!
Monday, May 26, 2008
Jalie Dress Conversion
It began with the slinky fabric I purchased at Textile Fabrics; fabric I probably didn't *need* but just fell in love with. I thought I would just make another Madison Avenue Dress from it, but I wore the green Jalie 2682 top last week and suddenly wondered if I could turn it into a dress. I had the cutting table out to trim the surcoats, so I decided to do a little pattern drafting...just to see if it would work.
What I did:
I laid a second piece of tissue paper over the bottom bit of the lower top back, marked the overlap line, extended the fold line down the new piece 14" and across. Then I made a mark about 1" below the bottom of the side seam and 1/2" out from that line and extended the seamline from about the waistline over to that mark, to allow for, um, the fuller part of my hipline. Then I continued down to the hemline with a very, very slight angle; I can't tell you what the measurement was; I just eyeballed it. Then I repeated the process for the front, using the just-drafted back piece as a guide.
I made a boo-boo in that I didn't allow enough overlap for a smooth transition from the top to the added piece; but I took care of that when I cut it out by laying my ruler over the two pieces to 'fill in the gap'.
The dress went together nearly as quickly as the top; I wore it out last night. It does need some 'shapewear'...and it probably wouldn't have hurt to duplicated the flare at the bottom of the Madison Avenue dress pattern, but overall I like the dress.
One note about using slinky for this pattern (top or dress); it makes for rather lumpy serged seams; a conventional machine w/a very slight zig-zag might be a better choice. And I found the front armsceye (2 layers of fabric there) bulky and difficult to turn under (especially since I used clear elastic to pull in the slight gap there). It's not as smooth as I would like, particularly on the left side.
But that's just between you and me. ;)
What I did:
I laid a second piece of tissue paper over the bottom bit of the lower top back, marked the overlap line, extended the fold line down the new piece 14" and across. Then I made a mark about 1" below the bottom of the side seam and 1/2" out from that line and extended the seamline from about the waistline over to that mark, to allow for, um, the fuller part of my hipline. Then I continued down to the hemline with a very, very slight angle; I can't tell you what the measurement was; I just eyeballed it. Then I repeated the process for the front, using the just-drafted back piece as a guide.
I made a boo-boo in that I didn't allow enough overlap for a smooth transition from the top to the added piece; but I took care of that when I cut it out by laying my ruler over the two pieces to 'fill in the gap'.
The dress went together nearly as quickly as the top; I wore it out last night. It does need some 'shapewear'...and it probably wouldn't have hurt to duplicated the flare at the bottom of the Madison Avenue dress pattern, but overall I like the dress.
One note about using slinky for this pattern (top or dress); it makes for rather lumpy serged seams; a conventional machine w/a very slight zig-zag might be a better choice. And I found the front armsceye (2 layers of fabric there) bulky and difficult to turn under (especially since I used clear elastic to pull in the slight gap there). It's not as smooth as I would like, particularly on the left side.
But that's just between you and me. ;)
Sunday, May 25, 2008
Choir Sundays 2008 # 15
This Month's Colors: Jeans w/black and/or white
Top: Hot Patterns Cadeau T, black/white strip rayon/lycra jersey knit
RTW Lee dark wash flared leg jeans
New sandals w/a bit of heel... ;)
We do not yet know what we'll be wearing in June; I'm expecting it'll be a repeat color...
OH! We found out this morning that our entire Sunday morning services, including the worship, are now streamed live on the web; you can click on the sidebar link for details if you're on the 'Net between 8:30 AM and about 12:30 PM Sundays US Central Daylight time... (which is 6 hours behind Greenwich Mean Time, I think...)
Saturday, May 24, 2008
Workin' It In
I'm learning that I'm a much happier costumer if I can squeeze in a project from my sewing queue once in a while, so last night I did a little project squeezing.
I had to clear off/open out the cutting table anyway to trim the flare from the surcoats (total removal: 12 inches from the hem circumference), so, while it was out, I indulged a whim I'd just had and drafted extensions for the lower portions of Jalie 2682 top to make it into a dress. Then I cut the new pattern from the printed slinky I got on my Mother's Day Weekend trip to Textile Fabrics. THEN I trimmed the surcoats ;).
Since I was planning to sew the surcoats today (preference from Pastor D: clean finish, no binding), I went ahead and thought I'd see how far I could get on my dress. And you know, I got all the way to the edge finishes. Armholes and hem and it's done. So I might squeak that in today before I change the thread on the serger for the surcoat finish.
I don't think it's *quite* as flattering as the Madison Avenue Dress, but that could just be because black is more slimming than the watercolors of the Jalie 'dress'. But it's not bad! I'll post a photo when it's done....
And that table's still out; maybe I'll trace a White Blouse Pattern before I put it away... ;)
I had to clear off/open out the cutting table anyway to trim the flare from the surcoats (total removal: 12 inches from the hem circumference), so, while it was out, I indulged a whim I'd just had and drafted extensions for the lower portions of Jalie 2682 top to make it into a dress. Then I cut the new pattern from the printed slinky I got on my Mother's Day Weekend trip to Textile Fabrics. THEN I trimmed the surcoats ;).
Since I was planning to sew the surcoats today (preference from Pastor D: clean finish, no binding), I went ahead and thought I'd see how far I could get on my dress. And you know, I got all the way to the edge finishes. Armholes and hem and it's done. So I might squeak that in today before I change the thread on the serger for the surcoat finish.
I don't think it's *quite* as flattering as the Madison Avenue Dress, but that could just be because black is more slimming than the watercolors of the Jalie 'dress'. But it's not bad! I'll post a photo when it's done....
And that table's still out; maybe I'll trace a White Blouse Pattern before I put it away... ;)
Friday, May 23, 2008
Pedal Fix
A couple of teeny nuts and bolts took care of it.
Which is good, because I finished opening up the seams on the surcoats yesterday. Hopefully they'll get finished off today, but I thought of a question about how it should be done. Should I bind them in bias to match the binding around the edges (and the hem, which I had to cut open), or should I just turn-and-stitch them down? Both have pros and cons; I'm not sure how to proceed.
I think an email to Pastor D is in order to see which way *he'd* like it done.
Which will give me a little time to fold some laundry, etc etc....
Thursday, May 22, 2008
The Cover is Definitely Blown
Got a phone call yesterday afternoon from the lady, whom I've not met, who is heading up costuming for a local community theater production of the musical The Children of Eden. This production company has some connections (ok, a VERY STRONG connection) to the Lee High School magnet, and she was given my name from someone who told her I was 'very good'. Could I please help out? I thought I detected a hint of desperation.
The problem is, regardless of whether I'm 'very good' or not, I'm definitely Very Swamped. I hedged, explaining that I'm already involved in a costuming project...when does the show open?
June 13.
Hm....well, I gave her my email addy and told her to keep me in the info loop; if all goes well with the pirate costumes I might be able to help a little later. If I can.
If.
She was disappointed...and I hate disappointing people.
Truth is, I'd kind of like to do it, just for the education I'd get from it. But I don't expect to have time right now. And there's nothing I can do about that.
I've got one of the surcoats opened up at the seams...the second one is about a quarter done. It's tedious...but once the seams are opened it should go back together fairly quickly. I hope. ;)
I gotta hit those piratey things next week.
The problem is, regardless of whether I'm 'very good' or not, I'm definitely Very Swamped. I hedged, explaining that I'm already involved in a costuming project...when does the show open?
June 13.
Hm....well, I gave her my email addy and told her to keep me in the info loop; if all goes well with the pirate costumes I might be able to help a little later. If I can.
If.
She was disappointed...and I hate disappointing people.
Truth is, I'd kind of like to do it, just for the education I'd get from it. But I don't expect to have time right now. And there's nothing I can do about that.
I've got one of the surcoats opened up at the seams...the second one is about a quarter done. It's tedious...but once the seams are opened it should go back together fairly quickly. I hope. ;)
I gotta hit those piratey things next week.
Wednesday, May 21, 2008
Not For Cowards
I don't know how many of you folks have the comic strip Luann in your newspaper, but there was a series a few weeks back that made me smile; I thought I'd share the main smile...
There is a boy, Gunther, that kind of likes Luann, but she (and her friends) think he's a bit nerdy. He refuses to believe it's because he wears one of several identical shirts every day; could it be his hobbies? He does magic shows for little kids, draw cartoons, and sews costumes for Luann to wear while she's doing story time at the local library.
Check out his defense of his hobbies... sewing is not for cowards! ;)
There is a boy, Gunther, that kind of likes Luann, but she (and her friends) think he's a bit nerdy. He refuses to believe it's because he wears one of several identical shirts every day; could it be his hobbies? He does magic shows for little kids, draw cartoons, and sews costumes for Luann to wear while she's doing story time at the local library.
Check out his defense of his hobbies... sewing is not for cowards! ;)
Tuesday, May 20, 2008
Surcoat Surgery
'Surcoat'! That's the word...
Ok, I'm altering two surcoats to be less, um, dress-like, since Pastor D will not be riding horses in the meetings they'll be conducting. These were purchased from an online vendor, and I must admit they're well-made. At first, he just wanted me to take up the side seams so that the flare was eliminated, but I'm afraid that would also take away all the walking ease. Yes, the garments have front and back slits (for riding the horses, you see), but I think they'll be better with a little extra room.
So the 'take up the side seams' has turned into 'open up the side seams and finish them off'.
And the side seams have been stitched conventionally, then serged, then pressed flat and topstitched down.
So the opening of the side seams is a little more of a production than I had anticipated.
But...I have one seam down and three to go.
Ok, I'm altering two surcoats to be less, um, dress-like, since Pastor D will not be riding horses in the meetings they'll be conducting. These were purchased from an online vendor, and I must admit they're well-made. At first, he just wanted me to take up the side seams so that the flare was eliminated, but I'm afraid that would also take away all the walking ease. Yes, the garments have front and back slits (for riding the horses, you see), but I think they'll be better with a little extra room.
So the 'take up the side seams' has turned into 'open up the side seams and finish them off'.
And the side seams have been stitched conventionally, then serged, then pressed flat and topstitched down.
So the opening of the side seams is a little more of a production than I had anticipated.
But...I have one seam down and three to go.
Monday, May 19, 2008
No Pressure
At least compared to some folks, my costuming efforts are rather low-key.
Oldest DD read the following aloud to me from yesterday's Parade Magazine (Sunday paper insert), from the 'Personality Parade' (Q&A) page:
Q: I love the gorgeous clothes...the..women have worn this season on Dancing With the Stars. Where do they get them?
A: They're made from scratch. 'After Tuesday's eliminations, we spend just 15 minutes with each contestant to design new outfits,' says Randall Christensen, the show's head designer. 'We shop on Wednesday, sew on Thursday, fit on Friday, apply glitter on Saturday, do a final fit on Sunday, and dress the dancers two hours before airtime on Monday.'
Wow. That's pressure!! I wonder how many seamstresses/tailors he has working for him?
Maybe I should fire up the TV and watch at least one episode, just to see the costumes?
Oldest DD read the following aloud to me from yesterday's Parade Magazine (Sunday paper insert), from the 'Personality Parade' (Q&A) page:
Q: I love the gorgeous clothes...the..women have worn this season on Dancing With the Stars. Where do they get them?
A: They're made from scratch. 'After Tuesday's eliminations, we spend just 15 minutes with each contestant to design new outfits,' says Randall Christensen, the show's head designer. 'We shop on Wednesday, sew on Thursday, fit on Friday, apply glitter on Saturday, do a final fit on Sunday, and dress the dancers two hours before airtime on Monday.'
Wow. That's pressure!! I wonder how many seamstresses/tailors he has working for him?
Maybe I should fire up the TV and watch at least one episode, just to see the costumes?
Sunday, May 18, 2008
Choir Sundays 2008 #14
We've officially gone to 'Summer Casual' in choir, even though we've got a week before Memorial Day. From now 'till August (or maybe even September), we'll be wearing 'Jeans And...' for choir.
This month we're wearing 'Jeans w/Black and White'. And folks are starting to have fun with my monthly photographs...
As for me, I wore my Lee jeans w/ the Vogue 2945 top, made from the white-ovals-on-black rayon/lycra jersey I got from Hancock's.
I really need taller shoes w/these jeans; they work good w/my 2" heeled boots, but I don't have any pretty summery shoes w/heels that I could stand to wear for the amount of time we stand in choir. That's on my list...
This month we're wearing 'Jeans w/Black and White'. And folks are starting to have fun with my monthly photographs...
As for me, I wore my Lee jeans w/ the Vogue 2945 top, made from the white-ovals-on-black rayon/lycra jersey I got from Hancock's.
I really need taller shoes w/these jeans; they work good w/my 2" heeled boots, but I don't have any pretty summery shoes w/heels that I could stand to wear for the amount of time we stand in choir. That's on my list...
Saturday, May 17, 2008
Alterations...quick?
We didn't quite get everything cut out on the pirate cosutmes; we've still got one pair of pants and the linings for the vests to cut (first, I gotta get some suitable vest lining). But the coat and its lining...the Big Cahuna of the whole project...is cut and I should get started on it this week. Miss A took one of the shirts home to work on it.
But first I need to do a little alteration for our Childrens' Pastors (As this is the third year I've been involved in costuming for them, I decided they're entitled to their own Post Label! ). They've been doing traveling family ministry w/a medieval theme for three years now; this year their bookings have really filled up and they needed several items. So, they went online and bought several pieces, and when they came, they found a couple of them needed a bit of altering. Turns out the over robe (doublet? My mind has gone blank...I know the name...) was designed to fit someone who was astride a horse. Pastor D does not ride any horses in the presentations, so the A-line flare of the garment needs to go away. Their first event is in just a couple of weeks; I brought home his two brand-new, made-to-order garments and will be altering them slightly so they don't flare out so much.
Before I start sewing the pirate things.
But while I was talking to them, PJ gave me a flyer from their promo material. It's kinda cool; you can see the Gold dress and the Squire tunics I made for them a couple of years ago (Pastor D added the studs to the tunics). Neat! :)
But first I need to do a little alteration for our Childrens' Pastors (As this is the third year I've been involved in costuming for them, I decided they're entitled to their own Post Label! ). They've been doing traveling family ministry w/a medieval theme for three years now; this year their bookings have really filled up and they needed several items. So, they went online and bought several pieces, and when they came, they found a couple of them needed a bit of altering. Turns out the over robe (doublet? My mind has gone blank...I know the name...) was designed to fit someone who was astride a horse. Pastor D does not ride any horses in the presentations, so the A-line flare of the garment needs to go away. Their first event is in just a couple of weeks; I brought home his two brand-new, made-to-order garments and will be altering them slightly so they don't flare out so much.
Before I start sewing the pirate things.
But while I was talking to them, PJ gave me a flyer from their promo material. It's kinda cool; you can see the Gold dress and the Squire tunics I made for them a couple of years ago (Pastor D added the studs to the tunics). Neat! :)
Friday, May 16, 2008
Puzzlement
Posted by Lisa Laree to Sew Random
Miss A and I worked on tracing all the pirate costume pieces yesterday; but we were stymied by the breeches in Simplicity 4923. The back crotch was, to be honest, shaped like a clown costume backside. The crotch curve was very shallow, and the crotch seam rose to several inches above the waist. The back waist is then gathered to the waistband, so all the fullness from that long shallow seam would balloon out, creating the fanny shape.
But that would be bone fide clown butt.
Now, the breeches have the double-welt flap in front instead of a fly; they have buttons at the bottom...in other words, they look pretty authentic everywhere else. But we're wondering about the back shape.
Senior Ranger Commander recently purchased a pair of pants for his costume that he was quite happy with, so we only have to make them for the Deputy Senior Commanders (one of which would be My Sweet Baboo). Anyway, before we cut the pants as described, we called Sr. Commander and asked him to bring in his 'good' period breeches so we can see how they were made.
That way, we'll at least be sort of consistent...
Miss A and I worked on tracing all the pirate costume pieces yesterday; but we were stymied by the breeches in Simplicity 4923. The back crotch was, to be honest, shaped like a clown costume backside. The crotch curve was very shallow, and the crotch seam rose to several inches above the waist. The back waist is then gathered to the waistband, so all the fullness from that long shallow seam would balloon out, creating the fanny shape.
But that would be bone fide clown butt.
Now, the breeches have the double-welt flap in front instead of a fly; they have buttons at the bottom...in other words, they look pretty authentic everywhere else. But we're wondering about the back shape.
Senior Ranger Commander recently purchased a pair of pants for his costume that he was quite happy with, so we only have to make them for the Deputy Senior Commanders (one of which would be My Sweet Baboo). Anyway, before we cut the pants as described, we called Sr. Commander and asked him to bring in his 'good' period breeches so we can see how they were made.
That way, we'll at least be sort of consistent...
Thursday, May 15, 2008
Going to the Backup...
Posted by Lisa Laree to Sew Random
The foot pedal on my primary New Home sewing machine had been doing some kind of weird things...getting kinda twisty when I used it. I thought a screw was loose but hadn't really taken time to look at it. Then, when I was sewing down the narrow hems on the Purity Blouse yesterday, this happened:
The welds popped! I guess that's not unreasonable for an 18ish-year-old machine, but I was surprised nonetheless to see that something that got as much stress as that foot pedal lever was held on with little welded dots. I tried using it without the lever, but that switch is very stiff and I could only get it to go by pushing Very Hard at Just The Right Angle. The result was that the machine roared along at an unbelievable...and unmanageable...speed. So I hauled out the backup Kenmore, ripped out the wild top stitching and finished out the blouse, finally.
So here's the finished product (and a glimpse of the New Hair). There really are three problems with this blouse, all of which are my issues at this point:
1) I need a square shoulder adjustment. Cynthia Guffey commented on my square shoulders in Atlanta this year; I need to just get into the habit of squaring that shoulder line on about everything. Dunno why I haven't figured this out before now.
2) I was scared it'd look tight so I added too much to the hips; that'll come off before I make it again.
3) The fabric, while sheer enough, isn't really drapey enough. A chiffon or georgette would drape...and skim...much better.
Anyway, you can read the details in The Review.
And My Sweet Baboo thinks he can put a couple of screws into the foot pedal to make it useful again...
I'm off to trace and cut today!
The foot pedal on my primary New Home sewing machine had been doing some kind of weird things...getting kinda twisty when I used it. I thought a screw was loose but hadn't really taken time to look at it. Then, when I was sewing down the narrow hems on the Purity Blouse yesterday, this happened:
The welds popped! I guess that's not unreasonable for an 18ish-year-old machine, but I was surprised nonetheless to see that something that got as much stress as that foot pedal lever was held on with little welded dots. I tried using it without the lever, but that switch is very stiff and I could only get it to go by pushing Very Hard at Just The Right Angle. The result was that the machine roared along at an unbelievable...and unmanageable...speed. So I hauled out the backup Kenmore, ripped out the wild top stitching and finished out the blouse, finally.
So here's the finished product (and a glimpse of the New Hair). There really are three problems with this blouse, all of which are my issues at this point:
1) I need a square shoulder adjustment. Cynthia Guffey commented on my square shoulders in Atlanta this year; I need to just get into the habit of squaring that shoulder line on about everything. Dunno why I haven't figured this out before now.
2) I was scared it'd look tight so I added too much to the hips; that'll come off before I make it again.
3) The fabric, while sheer enough, isn't really drapey enough. A chiffon or georgette would drape...and skim...much better.
Anyway, you can read the details in The Review.
And My Sweet Baboo thinks he can put a couple of screws into the foot pedal to make it useful again...
I'm off to trace and cut today!
Labels:
AAArrrrrrgghh,
Clothes for My Closet,
Indy Patterns
Wednesday, May 14, 2008
Focus...focus....
Posted by Lisa Laree on Sew Random
Yesterday ended up being a 'run around' day; I didn't get much done here on anything. I *did* get a significant hair cut, though, and I'll post a picture as soon as I can. I like it...but it was a bigger change than I expected!
But I'm definitely going to be cutting (or, at the rate I'm going, tracing patterns and cutting) the pirate costumes at church tomorrow and Friday. So much easier when I can push four tables together and have one big surface...
Meantime, I'm progressing slowly on the Purity Blouse. I did a pin-fitting; to my surprise it looks like it's going to work, but I've got to shorten the darts about 1 1/4". This is after I shortened them about 1" when I traced the pattern. Those were really long darts; I can't believe there's too many ladies with that narrow of a space between the bust apexes. 'Nuther one of the 'software drafting' glitches, I suppose. Anyway, I've got some unpickin' and restitchin' to do.
I am, however, making much use of the current issue of Threads. There's a great article by Linda Lee on mitering corners that greatly facilitated the finishing of the tie on the blouse; the mitered corners look much neater than the overlapped folds recommended would look.
Yesterday ended up being a 'run around' day; I didn't get much done here on anything. I *did* get a significant hair cut, though, and I'll post a picture as soon as I can. I like it...but it was a bigger change than I expected!
But I'm definitely going to be cutting (or, at the rate I'm going, tracing patterns and cutting) the pirate costumes at church tomorrow and Friday. So much easier when I can push four tables together and have one big surface...
Meantime, I'm progressing slowly on the Purity Blouse. I did a pin-fitting; to my surprise it looks like it's going to work, but I've got to shorten the darts about 1 1/4". This is after I shortened them about 1" when I traced the pattern. Those were really long darts; I can't believe there's too many ladies with that narrow of a space between the bust apexes. 'Nuther one of the 'software drafting' glitches, I suppose. Anyway, I've got some unpickin' and restitchin' to do.
I am, however, making much use of the current issue of Threads. There's a great article by Linda Lee on mitering corners that greatly facilitated the finishing of the tie on the blouse; the mitered corners look much neater than the overlapped folds recommended would look.
Tuesday, May 13, 2008
Dragging my feet...
Must. Trace. Pirate. Patterns.
Must. Cut. Costumes. Out.
But I don't wanna! I wanna sew my new stuff! However, as Miss A pointed out to me yesterday, "You do realize June is only about three weeks away, don't you?"
So I guess it's time to take a deep breath and start tracing...although I do expect to finish the Purity Blouse this week before I dive into swashbuckle sewing. I hope.
Must. Cut. Costumes. Out.
But I don't wanna! I wanna sew my new stuff! However, as Miss A pointed out to me yesterday, "You do realize June is only about three weeks away, don't you?"
So I guess it's time to take a deep breath and start tracing...although I do expect to finish the Purity Blouse this week before I dive into swashbuckle sewing. I hope.
Monday, May 12, 2008
Mother's Day Treat
Ok, it was technically the day before Mother's Day, but it applies.
When I posted my lament about the shortage of striped silk, I had a comment from a blog reader who turned out to be a fellow Pattern Review member. And who lives about five miles from my house. And who was planning a Mother's Day treat for herself: a trip up to Nashville and Textile Fabrics on Saturday. And who graciously invited me to tag along. :D
So Saturday turned into a road trip; disappointing only in that the stripe silk was long gone. But I had a great time visiting with Miss M.D., and I got fabric on sale from both Textile Fabrics and Jo-Ann's:
The first four are from TF: the two white pieces are both pima cotton shirting (I'm in desperate need of some nice short-sleeved white blouses); one is a sateen-finish; the other is a slightly heavier twill weave. Gorgeous. The blue is a printed slinky knit; I'm sort of thinking I'll make another Madison Avenue Dress from it; we've got several events coming up all clustered together this summer and some classy little dresses will be Just The Ticket. In that mind, I also bought the last three yards of a black rayon/lycra matte jersey, which will also be a dress once I decide on the pattern. The other two fabrics are both embroidered rayon/linen blends and were 50% off at Jo Ann's. I kind of bought them on spec...we still don't know what colors we'll be wearing after this month for choir and both of those are possibilities. The orange is pink enough that I could wear it without looking like I needed healing prayers; if orange shows up on the list, I'll make a little jacket from it. If it doesn't, I'll make something for DD, who will be ecstatic as orange is her favorite color. The pink *will* show up as a choir color sooner or later, so I'll decide just exactly what I want from that fabric when the time comes.
I got a couple of Burda patterns and an on-sale girl's Simplicity whilst we were at JoAnn's too; I had a list of Simplicity patterns I wanted but not one of them was in the drawers...
But while I was perusing the choices at Textile Fabrics, I happened to catch the eye of another shopper. She looked at me and said, 'Your face is so familiar! I've got to know you from somewhere!' It took just a minute for us to realize we'd seen each other on Pattern Review...it was Adrienne, who'd driven up from the Birmingham area with her mom just to check out the 30% off sale at Textile Fabrics. Was that not a HOOT!
But, as I commented to Miss M.D., this is sort of like going to Atlanta, where I typically get all inspired to sew up some lovely fabrics and then have to shelve them so I can sew Easter Costumes; this time, my lovely fabrics are going to have to be sewn kind of around the pirate costumes that need to be done by the first week of June.
Maybe I can at least sneak the white blouses in this month... ;)
When I posted my lament about the shortage of striped silk, I had a comment from a blog reader who turned out to be a fellow Pattern Review member. And who lives about five miles from my house. And who was planning a Mother's Day treat for herself: a trip up to Nashville and Textile Fabrics on Saturday. And who graciously invited me to tag along. :D
So Saturday turned into a road trip; disappointing only in that the stripe silk was long gone. But I had a great time visiting with Miss M.D., and I got fabric on sale from both Textile Fabrics and Jo-Ann's:
The first four are from TF: the two white pieces are both pima cotton shirting (I'm in desperate need of some nice short-sleeved white blouses); one is a sateen-finish; the other is a slightly heavier twill weave. Gorgeous. The blue is a printed slinky knit; I'm sort of thinking I'll make another Madison Avenue Dress from it; we've got several events coming up all clustered together this summer and some classy little dresses will be Just The Ticket. In that mind, I also bought the last three yards of a black rayon/lycra matte jersey, which will also be a dress once I decide on the pattern. The other two fabrics are both embroidered rayon/linen blends and were 50% off at Jo Ann's. I kind of bought them on spec...we still don't know what colors we'll be wearing after this month for choir and both of those are possibilities. The orange is pink enough that I could wear it without looking like I needed healing prayers; if orange shows up on the list, I'll make a little jacket from it. If it doesn't, I'll make something for DD, who will be ecstatic as orange is her favorite color. The pink *will* show up as a choir color sooner or later, so I'll decide just exactly what I want from that fabric when the time comes.
I got a couple of Burda patterns and an on-sale girl's Simplicity whilst we were at JoAnn's too; I had a list of Simplicity patterns I wanted but not one of them was in the drawers...
But while I was perusing the choices at Textile Fabrics, I happened to catch the eye of another shopper. She looked at me and said, 'Your face is so familiar! I've got to know you from somewhere!' It took just a minute for us to realize we'd seen each other on Pattern Review...it was Adrienne, who'd driven up from the Birmingham area with her mom just to check out the 30% off sale at Textile Fabrics. Was that not a HOOT!
But, as I commented to Miss M.D., this is sort of like going to Atlanta, where I typically get all inspired to sew up some lovely fabrics and then have to shelve them so I can sew Easter Costumes; this time, my lovely fabrics are going to have to be sewn kind of around the pirate costumes that need to be done by the first week of June.
Maybe I can at least sneak the white blouses in this month... ;)
Sunday, May 11, 2008
Choir Sunday 2008 #13
This month's colors: Black and white w/jeans
Jacket: The latest project, McCall's 5529 in the black/white jaquard check. The sash is an Ultrasuede wrap that I made in...1994?
Top: Jalie 965 tank top , in black rayon/lycra jersey from EOS.
The jeans are RTW Gloria Vanderbilt's...
I forgot to take the camera w/me to church to get a photo of the choir; I'll try and remember next week.
I'm not sure if I'm going to do these posts through the summer; we'll be in 'casual mode' and wearing jeans along w/whatever the designated colors are. I'll see how it goes....
(I'll report on the trip to Nashville tomorrow....)
Jacket: The latest project, McCall's 5529 in the black/white jaquard check. The sash is an Ultrasuede wrap that I made in...1994?
Top: Jalie 965 tank top , in black rayon/lycra jersey from EOS.
The jeans are RTW Gloria Vanderbilt's...
I forgot to take the camera w/me to church to get a photo of the choir; I'll try and remember next week.
I'm not sure if I'm going to do these posts through the summer; we'll be in 'casual mode' and wearing jeans along w/whatever the designated colors are. I'll see how it goes....
(I'll report on the trip to Nashville tomorrow....)
Saturday, May 10, 2008
Off To Textile Fabrics!
Ain't the Internet amazing? Turns out there is a fellow Pattern Review member who reads Sew Random who lives about 5 miles from me...and who was planning a trip to Textile Fabrics today and invited me to go along.
So I'm going to meet up with another home sewing enthusiast that I would not have met had it not been for the internet! Amazing.
Anyway, cross your fingers for me that that stripey silk is still on a shelf; I need 5/8 of a yard... ;)
So I'm going to meet up with another home sewing enthusiast that I would not have met had it not been for the internet! Amazing.
Anyway, cross your fingers for me that that stripey silk is still on a shelf; I need 5/8 of a yard... ;)
Friday, May 09, 2008
Found It!
So-- it's good news, bad news.
The good news is I found the Chopin Blouse pattern.
The bad news is that the lower back garment piece was not with it and I'm about 2" short of having enough to cut it out from the remnant piece. Y'know, I almost remember kind of absent-mindedly throwing out what I *thought* was a scrap of that when I was in the middle of Pippen costuming. I thought all the pieces of the blouse were bundled together in the corner. Wrong.
Now, I *could* piece it; if I matched the stripes carefully it might not show too bad (yeah, right). More likely, I could shorten the blouse a bit. It is pretty long.
But I think I'll just pack it up for now and see if I can get up to Textile Fabrics sometime in the next two or three months; perhaps they've still got some of that fabric left.
Lesson learned: never,ever throw out scraps until the project's done....
The good news is I found the Chopin Blouse pattern.
The bad news is that the lower back garment piece was not with it and I'm about 2" short of having enough to cut it out from the remnant piece. Y'know, I almost remember kind of absent-mindedly throwing out what I *thought* was a scrap of that when I was in the middle of Pippen costuming. I thought all the pieces of the blouse were bundled together in the corner. Wrong.
Now, I *could* piece it; if I matched the stripes carefully it might not show too bad (yeah, right). More likely, I could shorten the blouse a bit. It is pretty long.
But I think I'll just pack it up for now and see if I can get up to Textile Fabrics sometime in the next two or three months; perhaps they've still got some of that fabric left.
Lesson learned: never,ever throw out scraps until the project's done....
Thursday, May 08, 2008
The Linen is In
5 1/2 yards of beige linen (or maybe it's linen/rayon...can't remember now) from FFC for some blousy piratey shirts and 6 yards of brown Zegna from Michael for the flared and cuffed coat. The brown is borderline heavy enough for a coat, but I'm lining it w/cotton poplin so that should beef it up a bit. I'm *trying* to make it as cool to wear as possible, so any interfacing will likely be sewn-in cotton as well. They're (hopefully) making the first of three trips through the laundry today; as soon as they're sufficiently softened/preshrunk, I'll start cutting and the race will be on.
I forgot that I ordered a second piece of the Zegna from Michael...since it was on sale, and to make the shipping more, um, worthwhile. I got a yard and a half of the white-on-black strip shirting and wow, is it great. I actually had in mind making a shirt for DS the Elder, thinking it *might* be something he'd like (I have downloaded the freebie guy's shirt pattern, Jakob, from BurdaStyle to try for him), but, well, that fabric is looking quite attractive to me; especially since we wear black and white so much in choir. So we'll see.
I'm still 12 yards behind parity; that really was a bit of a splurge. It'd been almost 2 months since I last bought fabric for my own use.
And I may end up with some of the pirate linen in the stash, if I end up not needing it all (for instance, one of the costumees told me last night he'd found some nice costume pants and purchased them, so there's a bit that I won't need). But it's all nice, so if I end up with it...oh, well... ;)
I forgot that I ordered a second piece of the Zegna from Michael...since it was on sale, and to make the shipping more, um, worthwhile. I got a yard and a half of the white-on-black strip shirting and wow, is it great. I actually had in mind making a shirt for DS the Elder, thinking it *might* be something he'd like (I have downloaded the freebie guy's shirt pattern, Jakob, from BurdaStyle to try for him), but, well, that fabric is looking quite attractive to me; especially since we wear black and white so much in choir. So we'll see.
I'm still 12 yards behind parity; that really was a bit of a splurge. It'd been almost 2 months since I last bought fabric for my own use.
And I may end up with some of the pirate linen in the stash, if I end up not needing it all (for instance, one of the costumees told me last night he'd found some nice costume pants and purchased them, so there's a bit that I won't need). But it's all nice, so if I end up with it...oh, well... ;)
Wednesday, May 07, 2008
Catching Up
Y'know, it's harder to catch up than I thought; there's so much that happened in the last month and I really kind of let it slide right by me (I did manage to vote in the annual Timmel SWAP contest; but I knew that was coming up and I'd been following it up until the Internet Hiatus. The wardrobes are fabulous, as always, and everyone has offered up a wonderful inspiration...one lady made THREE separate wardrobes! Congratulations to everyone who completed a wardrobe, and an extra pat on the back to the winners!). Anyway. I had hundreds of blog posts that I hadn't read, and dozens of pages of unread posts on the bulletin boards... so I just skimmed it all. Real quick. It probably wasn't even enough to know what I read, but I couldn't just hit 'mark as read' and ignore it. So it'll probably take me a while to get back into the flow of things.
But I promised word on costumes today! And I've got two different costuming projects in the wings. One has no 'due date' -- just whenever I can get to it. It's the Medieval Knight Angels. I found the black-and-gold stretch velvet we used for Pippin. It was in the special order book at Hancock's; it was only shown in gold-on-black; it was $20 a yard. Not gonna work. But, whilst I was at Sir's (yes, the semi-local fabric outlet of supreme temptation...the place of my Parity downfall last spring...but I held firm and only bought costuming fabric this time!) looking for linen fabric for the other costuming project, I found some neat gold foil print on white knit; it's the drapey liquid lame stuff, only it's a very pale gold. I think it will look really neat under stage lights...all shimmery. So I loaded up on that, and some white-white linen-looking stuff for the tabbards. And some white knit stuff to line the gold (it is rather sheer). The angels will be coming soon.
But first I'll have to do the project that HAS a due date. This year's Royal Ranger state Pow-Wow camp will have an...arg! Pirate theme, and I've got an assignment to make pirate costumes for three of our commanders (one being my husband, another being the Senior Commander of our outpost). Senior Commander wants a full-out Jack Sparrow Costume complete w/coat. But they will be outside -- in Alabama -- in June. So I suggested linen fabrics as being the most comfortable (hence the trip to Sir's). I actually found several pieces of what feels to be linen or mostly linen for $3/yard up there; the rest is on order from FFC and Michael and should be here this week. I ordered 4 dozen antique gold buttons from Atlanta Thread and Supply that cost about .31 each w/shipping added in; turns out they have a kind of equestrian design on them; I'm hoping no one notices. So...Oi'll be sewin' up some piratey things real soon, matey, but Oi moight 'ave me some 'elp from th' other sewin' loidies.... we got about 5 weeks on that 'un.
It's going to be a busy month.
But I promised word on costumes today! And I've got two different costuming projects in the wings. One has no 'due date' -- just whenever I can get to it. It's the Medieval Knight Angels. I found the black-and-gold stretch velvet we used for Pippin. It was in the special order book at Hancock's; it was only shown in gold-on-black; it was $20 a yard. Not gonna work. But, whilst I was at Sir's (yes, the semi-local fabric outlet of supreme temptation...the place of my Parity downfall last spring...but I held firm and only bought costuming fabric this time!) looking for linen fabric for the other costuming project, I found some neat gold foil print on white knit; it's the drapey liquid lame stuff, only it's a very pale gold. I think it will look really neat under stage lights...all shimmery. So I loaded up on that, and some white-white linen-looking stuff for the tabbards. And some white knit stuff to line the gold (it is rather sheer). The angels will be coming soon.
But first I'll have to do the project that HAS a due date. This year's Royal Ranger state Pow-Wow camp will have an...arg! Pirate theme, and I've got an assignment to make pirate costumes for three of our commanders (one being my husband, another being the Senior Commander of our outpost). Senior Commander wants a full-out Jack Sparrow Costume complete w/coat. But they will be outside -- in Alabama -- in June. So I suggested linen fabrics as being the most comfortable (hence the trip to Sir's). I actually found several pieces of what feels to be linen or mostly linen for $3/yard up there; the rest is on order from FFC and Michael and should be here this week. I ordered 4 dozen antique gold buttons from Atlanta Thread and Supply that cost about .31 each w/shipping added in; turns out they have a kind of equestrian design on them; I'm hoping no one notices. So...Oi'll be sewin' up some piratey things real soon, matey, but Oi moight 'ave me some 'elp from th' other sewin' loidies.... we got about 5 weeks on that 'un.
It's going to be a busy month.
Tuesday, May 06, 2008
Moving On
There has been a tragedy in my sewing room; I'm hoping that I can resolve it but it's gonna cost me.
Remember the silk Chopin blouse I was working on back when Pippin costuming hit? I put the pieces all back in a corner, out of the way, so I could work on the Pippin stuff...and I decided to pull it out and finish it up whilst I was on the blogging break.
Only...the lower back piece has disappeared. I've looked and looked; cleaned around in the sewing nook (it's about 80% back to organized) and still no back piece. I do have a remnant that *might* be long enough to cut a new one...but I can't find the pattern, either. I could see the fabric getting tangled in something and accidentally taken away, but the pattern? It's GOTTA be here someplace.
Otherwise, it's a trip to Textile Fabrics w/my fingers crossed that they'll still have some of that stripe, and an order to Sewing Workshop for another pattern.
Meantime, the blouse-in-progress has been moved to a zip lok bag and returned to the 'WIP' box. But it hurt.
So I pulled out a couple of things to compensate; the slinky dress was a great boost, so I got brave and I cut into the black and white jacquard check fabric for a peplum jacket; it's McCall's 5529, which looks wonderful on the size 4 model and kinda meh on me, but it's ok. We're in black and white w/jeans for this month in choir, and I thought that would be a nifty thing to wear over a cami or lightweight t. I just have to make sure that the waistband on whatever pants is not ending right at the gathers on the flounce; that doesn't help the look any. I really think the jacket needs to be worn by someone with a skinnier waist in proportion to hips than I've got...at least the gathered version, anyway. But it's not *horrible*...just not *wonderful*. I'll wear it.
I've also cut out the now OOP Hot Patterns Artful Dodger Purity Blouse. That was one of their earlier releases, and it definitely had issues. I tissue fit the blouse and found that I could not even get the armsceye up my arm; I had to trim away close to an inch from the circumference in order to get the blouse ON...which meant I had to add about three inches to the sleeve width. I finally got something I hope will work, and cut it out of some cotton batiste...that's next up.
And some costuming...which I'll talk about tomorrow ;)
Remember the silk Chopin blouse I was working on back when Pippin costuming hit? I put the pieces all back in a corner, out of the way, so I could work on the Pippin stuff...and I decided to pull it out and finish it up whilst I was on the blogging break.
Only...the lower back piece has disappeared. I've looked and looked; cleaned around in the sewing nook (it's about 80% back to organized) and still no back piece. I do have a remnant that *might* be long enough to cut a new one...but I can't find the pattern, either. I could see the fabric getting tangled in something and accidentally taken away, but the pattern? It's GOTTA be here someplace.
Otherwise, it's a trip to Textile Fabrics w/my fingers crossed that they'll still have some of that stripe, and an order to Sewing Workshop for another pattern.
Meantime, the blouse-in-progress has been moved to a zip lok bag and returned to the 'WIP' box. But it hurt.
So I pulled out a couple of things to compensate; the slinky dress was a great boost, so I got brave and I cut into the black and white jacquard check fabric for a peplum jacket; it's McCall's 5529, which looks wonderful on the size 4 model and kinda meh on me, but it's ok. We're in black and white w/jeans for this month in choir, and I thought that would be a nifty thing to wear over a cami or lightweight t. I just have to make sure that the waistband on whatever pants is not ending right at the gathers on the flounce; that doesn't help the look any. I really think the jacket needs to be worn by someone with a skinnier waist in proportion to hips than I've got...at least the gathered version, anyway. But it's not *horrible*...just not *wonderful*. I'll wear it.
I've also cut out the now OOP Hot Patterns Artful Dodger Purity Blouse. That was one of their earlier releases, and it definitely had issues. I tissue fit the blouse and found that I could not even get the armsceye up my arm; I had to trim away close to an inch from the circumference in order to get the blouse ON...which meant I had to add about three inches to the sleeve width. I finally got something I hope will work, and cut it out of some cotton batiste...that's next up.
And some costuming...which I'll talk about tomorrow ;)
Monday, May 05, 2008
And the 'Record' button...
You know, you can get a lot done if you pretty much ignore the computer for a month...
And there was a lot I didn't get done, too, but I feel like I got a really, really good start at a number of things.
And I did a little sewing; got a bunch to do (read: upcoming costuming project!)
However, I've got a ton of errands today and I've got to hit the door in about 20 minutes, so I can't go into details on anything this morning.
But I hope to get the hem sewn on a jacket whilst I wait at the orthodontist later, so I'll have something to talk about tomorrow...
Got a bunch of catching up to do, that's for sure! (788 unread posts in Bloglines???)
Happy Monday!
And there was a lot I didn't get done, too, but I feel like I got a really, really good start at a number of things.
And I did a little sewing; got a bunch to do (read: upcoming costuming project!)
However, I've got a ton of errands today and I've got to hit the door in about 20 minutes, so I can't go into details on anything this morning.
But I hope to get the hem sewn on a jacket whilst I wait at the orthodontist later, so I'll have something to talk about tomorrow...
Got a bunch of catching up to do, that's for sure! (788 unread posts in Bloglines???)
Happy Monday!
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