Thursday, November 29, 2007

It's a No Go

I almost made it the whole year with out a wadder.


Well, I guess technically my HPCNTS isn't a wadder...I can donate it if I hem it, so I'll probably just do a quick run through the 'blind hem stitch' and put it in the donation bag.

The doggone thing's too big. Waaaayyyy too big.

I really don't understand that. It was a little snug when I made the muslin...last fall...and I've gained a pinch of weight since then. I was worried that it'd be too tight; imagine my surprise when I found I could pinch about 2 inches out of the girth of the skirt

I should've tried it on before I put the facing on the waistline, I suppose; then maybe I could've fixed it. But, due to the integrated facing/fly facing on this pattern, that would've been really awkward...the facing was attached to the fly front before I sewed the side seams of the skirt and the whole rest of the facing was flopping free. And, having done the muslin, I really thought it'd be pretty close to ok anyway. I must've messed up somehow when I translated the muslin changes to the pattern.

I thought about taking it apart and redoing it, but this is a pocketless skirt; I had problems w/the fly front (which were mostly my fault, from trying to combine two methods...the one in the HP guide and Peggy Sager's, which is not written for a faced waist); there's something weird about the front curves (did I inadvertently sew the back sides to the fronts and vice versa? I really didn't think so, but that would explain the results); the fabric is more crisp than drapey and it's lighter weight than would be practical for fall/winter...anyway, I'm going to do a quick finish on it and pass it along.

Some garments just seem doomed from the first stitch; this was one of them. It was frustrating and it doesn't fit. Fortunately, it was rather inexpensive fabric so I'm just going to consider it a muslin.

I did learn one thing, though...I need to do a little work on it to redraft the proportions of the panels; when I made that muslin a year ago, I didn't think the seams were spaced quite like the pattern illustration showed them. I emailed Trudy, and she said the drafting program they use doesn't always grade things up proportionately (HP has already been raked over the coals about this by other folks; I'm not going there today). Anyway, I thought I'd try it as is, and, looking at the way those seams divide the skirt on me, it would look better if they were moved around a bit. So there's work to do on this pattern anyway.

Actually, I'm not sure the faced-waist style suits me very well; just about every faced-waist skirt I've made has had fit problems (too big). Maybe I'm too used to adding the wearing ease for an actual waistband and I need to change my paradigm.

But I'm not sure when (or if) I'll tackle this skirt again.


  1. Doesn't it just drive you nuts--all that work for nothing? Well, someone else will surely enjoy the skirt when you donate it!
    PS--I never heard the term 'wadder' before, but I get it! I've had quite a few of those in my sewing life, too!

  2. Lisa, one person's wadder is another person's fortune. Good for you, sewing a beautiful new skirt for someone less fortunate and especially at this time of year! Often when a pattern doesn't work for me I'll look at the boxes holding my pattern stash and think 'so many patterns, so little time' and then I move on.

  3. Well, it's not a total loss, someone will get a fairly decent skirt in the end. I like the way you've looked at the bright side and took some lessons away with you rather than being bitter at HP about the whole thing.

  4. Thanks for the encouragement! :)

    In this case, I don't think the poor fit was HP's fault; I think I goofed on my alterations somehow, because the original muslin was just a hair snug and I altered it. Maybe I just thought I needed more ease than I really did; I did it a year ago so I've no idea now what I did. and learn.

    And I've worn it with the less-than-completely-flattering seam placement, if it had fit. But, since I gotta work it over to get it to fit, I'm going to fix the seam placement, too.

    If I mess with it at all, anyway. ;)

  5. couldn't you just die when you do all that hard work for nothing...aaarg