Friday, August 24, 2007

Mulling Over the Intriguing Jacket

Since I'm so swamped w/costuming and other misc sewing, I really can't jump into sewing up Vogue 2984 that's being discussed on various boards and blogs. I picked the pattern up at the last Hancock's sale (I probably won't make it to the one this weekend...bummer) and I've been studying it. I have some royal blue flannel (the piece with the moth damage, actually) that I'd love to make up in this, if I could squeeze the pattern on it. But it's not going to be an easy task.

Firstly, the jacket is designed to be self-lined. I've really been scratching my head over that...why would anyone want a self-lined wool jacket? Even in the 'lightweight wool flannel, lightweight wool crepe and lightweight tweed' recommended on the envelope? It would be itchy, it wouldn't slide over any kind of top well, and it would be really, really warm. But, self-lined it is...even the sleeves.

But, not only do I not like the idea of a self-lining, my flannel is more of a mid-weight and too heavy/bulky for that. And I don't have enough anyway. So I'm going to have to alter it for a lining.

I'm holding my breath that this isn't breaking any copyright laws, but here's a scan of the front/back piece:

Not your typical jacket pattern! The little football-shaped piece is the gusset that forms the back neck stand; there's a slash made at the 'inside corner' of the shawl collar/ shoulder seam intersection where it is inserted.

I'm thinking that slash will be the beginning point of the line that will be the seamline between the lining and the front facing and will curve around to intersect the back/peplum seam at the side.

Sort of like this:

I'd have to use a facing at the bottom of the sleeve for the turn-back, too, but that wouldn't be hard to draft.

The neck stand gusset would have to be from the wool for both layers, I think.

Anyway, does that look reasonable to you? And would you line the peplum or do two layers of flannel? Just looking for opinions...what I do may end up on how well the pattern fits on my rather chewed up piece of goods.

ETA: Obviously, I'm a newbie at posting things like this. Next time I'll get rid of that white space...


  1. Lisa, the "self-lining" is actually a way to get around the fact the at the original was made from doublecloth. I'd use a fulled wool and make one layer, personally, if I couldn't find doublecloth, and forget about the "lining". We're in the subtropics here....:)LOL

  2. Well, I live in New England and I can certainly understand the need for two layers of wool. Where you live it's not so much of a necessity, so a regular lining type fabric sounds like a good idea to me.

    Here's my opinion about the pattern pieces. Yes the neck stand probably should be in wool for both layers. I don't think you need to line the peplum in the wool, it might make it a bit heavy and maybe less flared. Besides you might have to juggle the pattern pieces a bit due to the moths who now have a full belly of blue wool. I agree with using a facing for the turn back cuffs and front. Looks like you have a good start to making this pattern work for you!

  3. Lisa, I would self-line the peplum. I think that it is most pleasing to the eye that when you are walking, sitting or whatever you're doing and that peplum flips slightly, that the eye sees continuity.

    Just my two-cents worth
    (another) Lisa

  4. Shannon, it occurred to me that it might be perfect for double cloth...that makes a BUNCH of sense.

    And that, children, is why those home-sewn patterns do not look like the Designer Original....

    But, having no doublecloth in the stash, and being enamored of a royal blue version of that jacket, I'm going to try to wedge it onto my sanctified (Holy? Hole-ey? ba-DUM-dum) wool. I think the double layer would look best on the peplum too, actually, but I think it's going to end up being lined w/Ambiance due to acute usable fabric shortage.

    But I love seeing everyone else's thoughts! Thanks so much for offering them up!

  5. I had a big belly laugh when saw your work in progress with only one item ticked off. I know how you feel. Nice to find your blog.

  6. My two pennies: why not line the peplum with a satin? The inside of the peplum is likely to show, and Ambiance is going to look like lining, whereas a satin might add another element of luxe to the jacket.
    It makes total sense that this was originally done in a doublewool. That would explain the drape, that will be near impossible to achieve with a lined piece of fabric.

  7. Oh, that IS an idea, Marji! Maybe even black or silver! Hmmmm......