Wednesday, April 05, 2006

Sleeve Considerations

Yesterday, I posted the sleeve question on Sewing World, with a link to the photos, and on Pattern Review, with a link to the blog explanation and just let the whole sleeve thing perculate in the back of my head while I worked on the twinset (the shell is done; the cardi only needs the edge finishes and buttons/buttonholes). I also searched through my Threads collection to see what I could glean from that. I also had DH take some better photos; you can see them at More grey blouse photos (click to next to see them both) I've come to a couple of conclusions:

1) There are two different things going on here; the armsceye is not positioned right and the sleeve cap is shaped wrong. I'm going to have to fix both of them if I want to use the pattern. It's pretty clear from the second new photo that the blouse is hiking because it's not right at the bottom of the armsceye...that's where it's really being lifted from; my engineering husband even thought that was the problem. Kathleen suggested morphing on a sleeve that fits, but unfortunately I haven't made a blouse with a true, fitted sleeve that fit in like, forever, so I don't have an example. My comment about lowering the armsceye, btw, wasn't what I thought I needed to do to fix the sleeve; it's what I'd have to do to morph on the Butterick sleeve to which I compared this pattern and I didn't --don't-- want to do that. I like the way the sleeve transitions from fitted at the top to full at the bottom; but I do want it to fit. So I'll be doing some muslining over the next few weeks and I'll report back. I'm on a sleeve fitting quest now ;)

2) I could, perhaps, salvage these sleeves by slashing and spreading the sleeves, then sewing a self-fabric diamond applique over the whole adjustment...y'know, make a design detail ;). But I'm not going to have time to do that before the SWAP deadline...and I'm not sure I'm brave enough to start whacking on a sleeve that I *like* that just doesn't behave. I've got to get over that part...I want to wear the blouse. But another possibility would be to insert a gusset in the underarm; that might give enough ease to allow my arm to move. I do have enough to make another set of sleeves; actually, I've got enough fabric to make a whole 'nuther blouse, which I'd sort of planned to do...from another pattern I want to try. If I cut more sleeves, I'm not sure I can still get another blouse from it. The easiest option, of course, is just to perform a sleevectomy and finish the armholes. Decisions, decisions.

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