Monday, February 09, 2015

Finally...something 'done'...

It's done, it's pressed, it's in the closet.

I need to go check a couple of things on the pattern before I write the review up, but my first iteration of McCall's 6436 finally gives me something to put in the 'done' column.

So, it's the pre-review photo discussion...

Not horrible, but a LONG way from TNT status.

The fabric is a lovely shirting that came from one of Michael's crazy sales about 12 years ago...but it's 100% cotton and so has no stretch whatsoever.  

This pattern comes in muti-cup sizing; I cut out the D cup and still need a wee bit of a FBA,   The darts are about 3/4" too high, too, and maybe just a bit too long.  Hard to tell, since they're not quite pointed right.

The shoulders fit fairly well, which is something.  I believe I did a little work on those, but I'll have to check my notes.  I cut it out before Christmas and now I'm not sure what I did to the pattern...

I left the back darts in and it's just a hair snug in the back.  I think I'll add a wee bit to the side seams, though, and leave the dart shaping there.  It at least gives the suggestion of a back waist...

I took a good bit out of the circumference of the cuff; it was huge.  But I think I need to put about 1/2" back in, just in case I want to wear a wristwatch. 

And I will change up that sleeve vent.  I've finally figured out what is wonky with that Palmer/Pletsch 'Painless Placket' that is used in virtually all their long-sleeved garments.... There is a seam along that vent line, and the opening is actually just a finished off bit at the bottom, not a true placket at all.  So, when the cuff is buttoned up, the sides of the sleeve are actually pulled into an overlap...creating a dart.  And, like all darts, it makes a bubble. Which means it's really just a gappy slit.

So, before I make it again...I'ma gonna tape the sleeve pattern up along that seam, which is perfectly FINE, as there is no shaping in it whatsoever, and put a true placket on it. 

Even a continuous lap lays flatter than the PP slit... and there was no mention of easing the sleeve cap, which was absolutely necessary.

The other issue is the collar bit that I pointed out a couple of days ago.  But I still need to verify that it was a problem with the draft and not my error.  Either way,  I'm not terribly happy with the collar directions...too much handwork, and it still doesn't have that professional polish I'm looking for.

But I'm not awfully disappointed.  I like the overall shape of the shirt and the fit in the shoulders is better than I've had in earlier shirts.  It's definitely wearable under a vest or a sweater.   I may very well make some pattern changes and give it another go before too long.

But first I think I'll sew up some quick knit tops.  I want to get some 'yards out' recorded...


  1. I think the colour looks really great on you and it will fit better than what you can buy.

  2. Yeah, Janine, that was my thinking! Considering the clearance sale Michael was running, the shirt cost about $10 US. Couldn't buy one that fit even as well for anywhere near that price... ;-)