Thursday, March 20, 2014

Officially in the WIP Column...

Finally finished cutting out the last bits of the trench coat tonight.

I did do some testing and decided that I would

1) cut all the interfacing pieces recommended by Burda from Pro Tricot fusible; it's very light weight but gives the fabric a crisp hand, which should work well for the collar and various tabs.

2) Interface the front, the belt, the sleeve hems, back hems and around the back armsceye with Pro Weft; it's a little thicker than the tricot, but it retains more drape

3) cut a front shield and a back shield from hymo and lining; I'll be putting that together to see if I can get the shoulder area nice and stable.  Haven't tried this before, but I have seen photos on the 'net so I'm going to give it a go.

4) I drafted curvy sleeve headers and cut them from quilt batting.  I saw a lot of references to them in the internet searches I did so I thought I'd give them a try.

I decided to omit the flap on the front; it confused me as it didn't really seem to have a function.  Front flaps I've seen before actually button over the right front, to cover that area at the top of the coat as a storm flap.  But this wasn't drafted to go that far over and I thought it would just kinda flop around, besides creating an opportunity for me to bungle something into Loving Hands at Home.

But I will line the back fly.  I think it will hang better.

My wool gab is really a tropical weight; I think my lining is actually a bit heavier than the shell fabric.  It really needs a bit of weight added here and there...hence the extra interfacing and lining and such.

I cut the coat out, then cut the front interfacing and fused it to the fronts; then I laid the fronts back together and made the tailors tacks for darts and pockets and such.

I really wish I had a clamshell press for things like that....

So I'm ready to start sewing with a fully booked weekend in front of me.  I will readily admit that this may be the only piece I actually finish from the SWAP wardrobe before the deadline, but it is the one I need the most....

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