Friday, February 21, 2014

First Muslin Pass at the Trench Coat

No, I haven't forgotten that I'm supposed to be making a trench coat...just can't seem to get into the sewing room.

But I did get the muslin cut out and thrown together; the first pass showed that I need to

1) move the shoulders in 3/4"
2) remove excess ease from the sleeve cap
3) lower the bust point of the dart about 1 1/4"

I'll also need to add a couple inches of length, as the bottom edge of the muslin hit right about mid knee, which is about where I want the finished length, so I need to add a hem allowance.

The muslin actually fit a bit loose, but since I will be wearing bulky layers under it I thought that was a good thing.  I think if I can get the shoulders fixed up it will be fine if it's a bit big...I'll be able to put bulky sweaters under it.

I've trimmed out the shoulders and marked the new bust points; I'll fix the darts and put the sleeves in again on  my next iteration.  I'm hoping that the narrowed shoulders will take care of the extra ease in the sleeve cap.

But if that all looks decent I think I'll call it good and cut out the good stuff.  I've decided to go with fusible interfacing, since I really don't want a terribly stiff coat, so it'll probably take me a full week just to get all the interfacing fused on.  I may try to add a floating chest piece, though...I kinda have  a hollow upper chest, so that may be a good thing to do.  

The hardest thing so far has just been sticking to my resolve not to buy any more fabric until the coat is done.  I've had to exercise some real restraint, let me tell you....;-)

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