Saturday, May 02, 2015

Enough already

I'm crying 'Uncle!' on this one.

This is the 4th muslin.  The sleeves, while no longer batwing droopy, STILL do not join the body correctly.  They look to me as though the armsceye is set too much round to the back and there's a bunch of what Cynthia Guffey would call 'goo'  in front of the lower armsceye.

It just doesn't look...right, although it doesn't feel too bad.

Moral:  I need to develop a good, basic jacket pattern onto which I can morph specific details, like the cute little peplum back on this jacket.  Trying to alter up the shoulder/sleeve/armsceye is just not working for me.

And, you know, looking at those original photos, it looks like it would be a simple adjustment to scoot the sleeve up and in.

Ha ha and ha.

Oy.  I hate starting over.

9 comments:

  1. Your muslin does not look bad to me at all.

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    1. Yeah, it's the wrong angle to see the yuck at the armsceye. I'll see if I can get My Sweet Baboo to take a picture that shows it better.

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    2. Although if you click it to make it bigger, you can see some of the goo around where the princess seam hits the armsceye.

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  2. Looks like you just need to refit the side front princess seam. You've got some extra fabric there. I looked at the first muslin and the same issue was present in that one. Granted a side view may give a different thought.

    Other than that it looks great. Debbie

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    1. There may be a bit of extra I could take out right at the princess seam, but the armsceye seam is still on my arm, not between my arm and my body. I released the front armsceye seam and took the sleeve into the body about 1/2 inch, which helped a little, but I've still got some weird stuff going on under the arm that is more than just the princess seam adjustment. It shows up in the mirror but the photos don't get it for some reason. I just don't know enough about sleeve drafting to make this big a change in the pattern...It really was a honkin' big shoulder and armsceye that I basically had to whack back. It's close...and I may pull it out later and give it another go, after I study up on it a bit. And maybe get a TNT of a different pattern that I can compare it to. I traced off one of Cynthia Guffey's jackets this evening...basic shoulder princess cut. We'll see what that looks like. ;-)

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    2. The original pattern was drafted for a large shoulder pad...which I didn't want to use in a denim jacket. If you look at the first muslin, you can see the wrinkles at the bottom of the armsceye on the jacket back; that's sort of what's going on on the front now that isn't showing up well on the camera. Foldy things at the bottom and just in front of it.

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    3. I commented on the newer post before coming back and reading your reply.

      I must have missed the mention of a shoulder pad in the first post where the armscye was too deep. The way that I was taught to remove the depth for a shoulder pad was to remove it from the shoulder angle since that's the way they change the draft to add a pad, and not to just raise the underarm. You then have to remove the same amount from the top of the sleeve cap to correct the sleeve or fold it out across the cap above the notches.

      That could be what's causing so many problems. The shoulder angle is wrong in relation to the intended draft minus the shoulder pad.

      With that thought in mind and thinking about the newer posted pictures if you were to change the shoulder angle that would have the same net effect as adding for a rounded back since you'd be shortening the sides of the back which in effect makes the cb longer. Hopefully you can picture what I'm trying to explain. LOL

      Debbie

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    4. yeah, the light had begun to dawn on me about the shoulder angle, too. I have fairly square shoulders so most of the time I don't have to adjust down...when the shoulder pad is 1/2 or so . But I think this was supposed to be one of those honkin' 90's shoulder pads and I should've adjusted for it. And I should have petited the armsceye. But I also have absurdly narrow shoulders, so I tried to do everything at once...shorten the shoulder seam, move the underarm up and take excess ease out of the sleeve. It was too much at one go and then I couldn't tell what was good and what was bad.

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    5. I could just stick a shoulder pad in it and see how much difference it makes...

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